Climbing and Ice Climbing Jiptik valley 2021

Climbing and Ice Climbing Jiptik valley 2021

Our original objectives in the Jiptik Valley remain unclimbed and there is plenty of potential for first ascents in the valley. The Jiptik range saw little climbing during the Soviet era - a handful of easy routes were climbed. After the collapse of the USSR, the range remained untouched until 1996 when Paul Hersey travelled to the Jiptik valley and climbed Kyzyl Muz (5,127m), Muz-Tash (5040 m), Pik 4900 m, and Pik 4720 m. In 2009 Hersey returned to Jiptik with Graham Zimmerman and Yewjin Tan. The group climbed a new route on the north face of Kyzyl Muz and identified the north face of Muz-Tok (5,066m) as an excellent unclimbed objective (AAJ 2009). Muz-Tok has been climbed once (during the Soviet era) via the south-west ridge. Hersey et al. left stating that “the Jiptik holds many excellent possibilities for technical first ascents, generally on steep ice.

 

1

Osh-Sary-Jaz

 Arrival Osh transfer to Sary-Jaz. (325km 7 hours) Accommodations in tents. 

2

Trekking day

 Trekking days to Sary Jaz - Dodo( 10  hours) stay  in tents Central Asia Tours 

 

3

Trekking day

 Trekking days to Dodo-  Jiptik valley ( 10  hours) stay  in tents Central Asia Tours 

4

4-20 Climbing

Stay in Base Camp in Central Asia Tours.

 

 

5

Trekking day

Trekking to Jiptik valley  -Dodo mountain. Stay in tents Central Asia Tours 

6

Trekking day

Trekking to Dodo mountains -Sary-Jaz and transfer to Batken. Stay in guest house Batken.

7

Batken-Osh

Transfer: Batken -Osh.  City Tour,  Stay in the hotel.

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Jiptik